Rustoration of 1991 FOXBODY Mustang GT as a Cobra Clone

So I went back to the 19lb stock single hole injectors. No issues on the install. The idle has smoothed out and it accelerates smooth. I am getting a check engine light which I believe is a code 22 the BAP sensor. I need to test the cooling capacity of the fans but so far they seem to handle the job.

So I tried the used pro-m maf sized for the 24lb injectors that came with the car. Motor was a 94 cobra motor so these are most likely original and stock based on the valve covers, comp cam 1.7 roller rockers, plus all the castings on the motor, trans, and rear end. The radiator hoses were even dated 5/12/93. With the used maf, the car runs drives, has power sounds like an e-cam again but gets wacky. Stalls won't restart gets nutty with throttle, doesn't like the heat. Someone recently tapped on the maf and it stalled. I tried that after it stalled during a cooling system test and it changed the behavior so I am sure the maf is not happy.  (By the way, after pressure testing the cooling system, a lower rad hose was the leak) the over-heating was because the fan sensor was all the way through the rad and the tip needs to be inside for the fans to run consistently. Moved the sensor to a new spot and it stays around the "o" of normal, I might lower it down a ...

So the amazon fans didn't work out. Just not enough air flow. A friend offered to sell me an MAF for 24lb injectors. He also, by luck had a set of 2000 contour fans that came with a crack in the plastic. I had a set waiting in the amazon cart to be ordered. After a good amount of trimming and bracket creation, I mounted and wired them. I got the oe fan connectors and they cool it down nicely. I have a fan kill switch to wire in but that's future. Now the tps is acting up, if you stomp the gas and then try to start it, it would start for a second. Did base idle reset and no better. After changing the MAF I did a base idle reset and swapped the tps but I think they are both bad. The old one has dead spots and the new one isn't working well down low. I'll pick up a duralast one for $45 and it should hopefully fix it. Now with the right maf you hear the cam  and it revs out, plus you barely have to give is gas in first gear. But if I get on it, the c...

Interesting thing. I think the last owners swapped the high beams for the regular headlights in the wiring. Then after they realized it, they removed the cluster bulb or burned it out. The car came with HIDs uninstalled and after market headlight pigtails. Finding a picture of an original pigtail to reference since the aftermarket wires are all black was not easy. (Actually after testing the functions it seems this is backwards) There is only 1 on ebay with the original colored wires. Fortunately I think I can repin the connection. I went to the wiring diagram to check the color codes and there is actually a mistake in diagram.  I tried it both ways and only red/black on the left works. If you think about it, the bulbs are wired the same left and right.

Just with vibration and location the plastic tabs are no good at holding the alternator fuse cover in place so I slid a bungee in behind the base and drilled 2 tiny holes on the top. i added a bit of paint to the grill, just a spray bomb for now but it's nice and shiny. A bit of trash in the clear but nothing I am concerned about to wet sand out. I touched up the grill opening just to coat the raw yellow plastic with black where it was trimmed for the cobra grill. i remade one of the smaller ground effects brackets out of scrap galvanized gas tank metal. I'll paint it and then wax it heavily with wax ring.  About a year ago, for an experiment I ground down the paint and coated a ball hitch riser in wax ring, which inadvertently turned into a door stop. It's been sitting on a damp concrete floor getting kicked around for a year and hasn't rusted at all. It hasn't even picked up that coating of dirt I expected. I think that should b...

I can finally say I am getting somewhere. I burped the cooling system 3 times and thinned the mix with distilled water to 60/30. I had used concentrate without realizing it. The fan controller was set to the max somehow and now it hangs out right about half just idling.  I did the window motors and run channels but they are still pretty weak. The driver's side seems like it will break in after some use but the passenger side has the tilt that makes it bind. I'll work on it. Might need to take the guides out and polish them or even change the helper springs. Next I'll wrap up the wiring and I need to figure out why my turn signals stopped working.

After my alignment I noticed some slip in the steering. A loose bolt from the column to the shaft was to blame but not all of the slop was removed. Still had a half inch in the wheel before anything happened. I loosened the rack mount bolts to the end of the thread. Unbolted the shaft pin from the steering column. It's a tough spot to get a wrench on top to hold the bolt because it's under the brake booster. There's a ton of things in the way. I laid an open end wrench with a bit of tape over the bolt and with a 12 inch extension and wobble socket from underneath, I was able to break the blue lock tight. Then fought the bolt out of the hole with some hose clamp pliers. here is a video of the play in the joint. I drilled a second detent in the shaft pin and lock-tighted both set screws and lock nuts. I am going to go back over all of the connections, clean and lock tight them all.