injectors, and cam identity

So I tried the used pro-m maf sized for the 24lb injectors that came with the car. Motor was a 94 cobra motor so these are most likely original and stock based on the valve covers, comp cam 1.7 roller rockers, plus all the castings on the motor, trans, and rear end. The radiator hoses were even dated 5/12/93.

With the used maf, the car runs drives, has power sounds like an e-cam again but gets wacky. Stalls won't restart gets nutty with throttle, doesn't like the heat. Someone recently tapped on the maf and it stalled. I tried that after it stalled during a cooling system test and it changed the behavior so I am sure the maf is not happy. 
(By the way, after pressure testing the cooling system, a lower rad hose was the leak) the over-heating was because the fan sensor was all the way through the rad and the tip needs to be inside for the fans to run consistently. Moved the sensor to a new spot and it stays around the "o" of normal, I might lower it down a bit more.

Looking for maf solutions that are budget friendly, yet a correct fix have lead me to a list.
1 chip and tune the fox gt a9p ecu $150 not including software (I'd like to mess with the tune but really want a driver first)
2 get a cobra x3c ecu $250 or more (brings me closer to 100% clone status but it's with paint on the need to do list) I'll save the injectors for that.
3 fix the pro-m maf $175 ( hate this idea because it's only a bandaid to run with what came with the car.
4 use a stock set of 19lb injectors I have already that match the ecu and maf $25 for new o-rings and pintle caps. (This is how I am going to go because it's 1 day work and all ford parts.) Plus I ran an injector cleaning cycle and everything seems happy. Just need the higher pressure to see if they leak when they are installed. It might be worth a maf cleaning for both the pro-m and the cobra maf or a cheapo replacement.
While I am in there with the upper intake off, I am going to attempt to get the cam pushrod and valve lift reading to ID the cam shaft. For Christmas I was gifted a cheap dial indicator and want to clean the valve covers at the same time. There are a few guides online about how to do it and I'd like to give it a shot. I know it leads to probably another day of down time but I am curious. Also I know the readings won't be perfect because of lifter bleed down. Another part of me wants to do it at the car show with a white board and a guess that cam list. Probably not going to happen since I'll have kids with me and there's a possibility of rain, even on the rain date. The show is in 2 days but it's rained out for the 25th. 

Popular posts from this blog

Flywheel, clutch, bell housing and some other details

Image
Installed the new flywheel.  Installed the new clutch.  Installed the clutch fork and throw out bearing  And then the bell housing  Installed a new transmission tailshaft seal.  I built a sled to drag it into place under the car and there's a bolt that fits the center of my jack through the center board. I may have to pull the shift cause there's exactly 19 inches under the pinch weld and thats the same to the shifter nub.
Read more

power steering rack line seals

Image
I finally decided to stop the leak that leaves a ton of fluid on my garage floor. I ordered the maximum motorsports rack seal kit. The instructions say you need to be clean before applying the sealant to the threads. I drained the rack and purged the rack after the lines were off so I could get rid of that little bit of fluid in the ports. i decided to completely remove and flush the lines to install the nylon seals. And have them stay clean through the install. the old one was chewed and the one that looks like new, wasn't installed right. Used the 2 screw driver method to gently stretch the rings out.  Then of course I take a break and get COVID. So 2 days later I am posting the pics.
Read more

water pump redo

Image
So with the change in temperature at the beginning of the year the water pump started sleeping when it was cold. This gradually got worse through the heat cycles. With corrosion evident on the bottom of the pump I decided to redo the water pump even though I am sure it could have just been resealed and been ok. I think I made 3 mistakes last time. I used the crap black gaskets that came with the pump. I used ultra grey rtv. I sealed the inner air pockets inside the pump. These filled with fluid and with the thermal expansion compromised the gasket. I went for a motorcraft pump this time as well as the light blue permatex rtv 22071. After I heatcycle the motor a few times I am going to go back and torque everything again. I also replaced the 2 left bolts that had corrosion on the from last time, with stainless ones. (5/16 - 18 4") I would have liked a 3 7/8" bolt but it's not available in stainless locally. I put a cut in an old bolt and chased the
Read more