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Showing posts from July, 2020

Getting it to run

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I have not solved all the problems but I am on the right track. The crank no start check list says start with aftermarket ignition boxes. Even though I replaced the ignition switch and solenoid first, I feel like the msd box was the issue. It showed good battery connection and ground but I had nothing at the coil. I connected the coil wires without the msd box. I checked and tightened the coil polarity and connectors. I pulled the spout plug and connected it to #1 plug and rotated the distribtor and now I have spark. With the spout out it trys to fire on 1 or 2 cylinders. The other thing is I see 12.67 volts at the battery and 12.11 at the coil. Thats a pretty big drop.  I think I need to remove all the aftermarket ignition wiring and just solder the stock wires that connect to the coil. Another cool thing is the stock oil gauge came back to life. I think it didn't like the thread sealer and now some has worn away so it's grounding. - - - - - - - update - - - - - - - After 3 da

Distributor, tfi replacement, gas tank flush, and i burned up a fusable link

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So I finished the wiring got the fender liners in. Messed with the distributor a bit. Pulled the old distibutor and dropped in another one i have after cleaning and reapplying the thermal paste to the tfi. The original tfi was loose and missing a bolt and the other bolt was stripped. I used vise grips and a socket with some vinyl tape jammed in the tip to get the recessed rounded off bolt out.  You see the missing bolt. The original shaft is pretty rough. Found tdc with holding my finger over the cylinder, and a wire and marked 10 degrees after. Here's the used tfi replacement before I cleaned it up. I tested the pins to a resistance spec and they are uniformly lower. Both the original and the new one. The original had a weak showing on 1 pin but it's surface contact so it can be cleaned. Cleaned with a brass brush and then thermal pasted and Dielectric grease applied. I have a heat sink to do a relocation later but my goal is to set timing and getting it to idle.  Dropped it o

Smoke tester

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I made a smoke tester. A friend said he thought he had some intake leaks and I planned to put on together already since I had an extra soldering iron. I used a queso jar, some 2 part epoxy glue, cheapo soldering iron, Bic pen, and some 3/8 hose, a sock and some baby oil. Not an original idea by any stretch but I didn't think it would work as good as it did.  We found 2 intake leaks in 10 min. For the exhaust I think you can stuff the tail pipe but we didn't check that out yet. To make the little smoker. Glue a flat piece of wood on the bottom of the jar to keep it steady. Measure the soldering iron and make sure it's not longer then your jar. Mine was 3/4 inch from the bottom. I would have added some PVC rings if I had to space it out. Measure the soldering iron barrel and use the step bit to make a hole in the metal jar lid. I also made holes for the pen cap and a section of the body of the pen but with enough room that the jar seal was free of glue. The hard part is getti

1 fender on, temporary overflow tank and solving the steering shaft crisis

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I returned 1 fender to its home. The door gap is a bit large but I am going to pay attention to looks last. Yes that's a lot of dust. I decided the coolant overflow tank was a do later thing and just needs to not leak, so creamy skippy to the rescue. It's pete plastic so it should be fine for the temperature of the coolant. Solving the steering shaft crisis. After some digging I found out my old motor mount are probably a bit soft and saggy, so adding 2 washers above them wouldn't hurt as long as the engine is level. Honestly the shifter is sitting more centered and level now then before. Now I have a good 1/2 inch clearance.

Last of the wiring

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I finished up the last of the wiring for the interior and the fan controller.  This is the positive and grounds running to the 75 amp relay from the bottom of the rad support. You can just see the silver of the temp sensor that is near the out put of the radiator. Clean wiring with disconnects routed to the bottom of the rad support. I'd prefer all weather connectors but these will serve for now. I stashed the relay and the fan controller in front of the washer fluid reservoir. The temp adjustment knob blends in to the fender apron. This is the after organization of the interior wires. This was before I clipped them and routed them. I am also stuck on the new location for the over flow tank. I like it hidden but it needs to be accessible. Behind the headlight works but makes getting the bulbs out hell. I will probably just use a peanut butter jar until in decide and ziptie it to the apron.