Distributor, tfi replacement, gas tank flush, and i burned up a fusable link
So I finished the wiring got the fender liners in. Messed with the distributor a bit. Pulled the old distibutor and dropped in another one i have after cleaning and reapplying the thermal paste to the tfi. The original tfi was loose and missing a bolt and the other bolt was stripped. I used vise grips and a socket with some vinyl tape jammed in the tip to get the recessed rounded off bolt out. 
You see the missing bolt.
The original shaft is pretty rough.
Found tdc with holding my finger over the cylinder, and a wire and marked 10 degrees after.
Here's the used tfi replacement before I cleaned it up. I tested the pins to a resistance spec and they are uniformly lower. Both the original and the new one. The original had a weak showing on 1 pin but it's surface contact so it can be cleaned.
Cleaned with a brass brush and then thermal pasted and Dielectric grease applied. I have a heat sink to do a relocation later but my goal is to set timing and getting it to idle.
Dropped it off the jack stands and made it a roller. Primed the oil pump before i dropped the distribtor in, and it made 45 lbs on the cheapo drill, hooked up a battery and flushed the gas tank until the pump sucked air. 
Ran a jumper on the fuel pump test ports and the pump worked fine. I'd say 80gph stock pump a little more then 1g per min.
It looks worse then it was. There was 3 gallons of not so smelly fuel. It was far from bad although probably pretty low octane. The dark stuff is crud that was already in the container. I tossed in some fuel system cleaned and shook the car for a bit.
Added new fuel back and started it up.
It started but ran badly and i stopped to look for leaks and it burned up a starter cable. There is an upgraded mini starter installed and it's wired different from stock. Figured that out so it cranks without smoking the wires if not a little weak. The weak crank is just the battery relcation which i knew id have to fix eventually.
But i believe i also took out a fusible link at the same time. So now I have no power at the coil. So there is fuel and crank but no spark.
Need to look over the harness and find where it burned up and it should run. Then its timing and tps reset.
I order a new solenoid and ignition switch because they are known fail points and I'd rather start with new parts. I know throwing parts is not the way to solve it, which is why I will test before installing. Just want to have the known fail points covered and those parts are cheap.
