Rustoration of 1991 FOXBODY Mustang GT as a Cobra Clone

I had an old wrench I had cut the end off for a past project and decided to make a shift lever adapter for my bakolite 33  Ford knob. Think I need to turn it 45° more. If I drop 2 washers into the receiver it should be right but I ran out of time today. I also have a black ball shift knob and the silver skull which I bought some threaded hardware to make them more sturdy and extend the lever. I swapped the Allen key for slotted set screws. I also want to mess around with the angle cause I currently have to reach for 1st.   I am a fan of early hurst bent style levers and the 70s Mopar pistol grip as well. The shifter I have currently is a gen1 t5 Hurst shifter but it still has the plastic ball cup. There might be a brass one but for now it's not important. Another cheesy idea I had was going to pick up a cheap survival knife at a swap meet, drill some holes in the blade and try that, still with the Paracord wrap on a metal handle. Don't know if I could get the angle right and I...

So with the change in temperature at the beginning of the year the water pump started sleeping when it was cold. This gradually got worse through the heat cycles. With corrosion evident on the bottom of the pump I decided to redo the water pump even though I am sure it could have just been resealed and been ok. I think I made 3 mistakes last time. I used the crap black gaskets that came with the pump. I used ultra grey rtv. I sealed the inner air pockets inside the pump. These filled with fluid and with the thermal expansion compromised the gasket. I went for a motorcraft pump this time as well as the light blue permatex rtv 22071. After I heatcycle the motor a few times I am going to go back and torque everything again. I also replaced the 2 left bolts that had corrosion on the from last time, with stainless ones. (5/16 - 18 4") I would have liked a 3 7/8" bolt but it's not available in stainless locally. I put a cut in an old bolt and chased the ...

I finally decided to stop the leak that leaves a ton of fluid on my garage floor. I ordered the maximum motorsports rack seal kit. The instructions say you need to be clean before applying the sealant to the threads. I drained the rack and purged the rack after the lines were off so I could get rid of that little bit of fluid in the ports. i decided to completely remove and flush the lines to install the nylon seals. And have them stay clean through the install. the old one was chewed and the one that looks like new, wasn't installed right. Used the 2 screw driver method to gently stretch the rings out.  Then of course I take a break and get COVID. So 2 days later I am posting the pics.

So I decided I needed a better water temp gauge on the fox. After looking at prices options and new sensor locations, I decided on a super cheap digital gauge and a new thermostat housing with a 3/8 port. The first gauge I received was in Celsius which I returned and ordered a 3/8 to 1/8 npt adapter. I found an AutoZone thermostat housing combo with a gasket.  There was a good amount of casting slag in the turn of the water neck which I took a file to.  I didn't notice the waterpump bypass nipple was an inch longer than one making getting the tiny right angle bypass hose on and real pain. I ended up folding it in half and ziptieing it, to get it started on both nipples at the same time. I found some corrosion on the threads of the bolts when I took it apart so I coated those in liquid ptfe sealant as well as the sensor and adapter. For a gauge mount I am just using some scrap plastic and a 2" hole saw to make a temp mount. I'd like to make a dash pod that sits where the ol...

Next job I am starting to save for is to replace the tail shaft bushing in the t5 on the mustang.  Basically I added a quart of fluid and it stopped making noise and shifting hard. After 3 hrs of road time, it came back. The removal and install tool I see on Amazon which I am not positive is the right size is $160 The bushing and seal are $12 most places And the new slip yoke is $160 on cj pony parts The U joints are only a year old so just some new grease. Steel input retainer, Fox input shaft, Input Shim kit $140 Solid brass shift fork pads $60 1st-2nd gear cobra t5 syncro $100 So to do everything at once is a $710 job including fluids.

So the beater (sn95 v6 mustang) started squealing and grinding while turning and I knew it was time for at least 1 ball joint. Ordered a set of balljoint and tie rod ends. As I found out it's a 3 tool rental job. Tie rod end remover, balljoint press and a pickle fork to remove the knuckle.  Other then the brake slide pins which are torx being stripped it was uneventful. The abs sensor was pretty stuck as well. Just took the knuckle off with the caliper still attached and rebleed the brakes but because of the sensor lead I put it on a stool while I worked. However my grease gun decided not to work so I'll have the alignment shop grease them for me.

So the temperature has dropped into the 40s and I am still driving the fox on dry days. I will until the first salt hits the road. Although the first 2 minutes of each ride, it didn't seem to run right since it's been colder. Hesitation, popping and banging until I got it up to 15-20 mph and the it would disappear and run normal. I sat in the car after a run and heard the exhaust ticking and it gave me the idea that it might have an exhaust leak and the headers are running hot. Makes sense that after they heat up and take up the space, the fuel mix would improve. Dreading to having to tighten the ball flange nuts again, I decided to first check the manifold bolts and sure enough they were all a quarter turn loose. Now it runs great, temps are down and power is up, no more hesitation or stuttering.  If it happens again I might have to add some PTFE to the threads. I know thread locker is called for but with the high heat the PTFE stays gummy. Maybe I'll try 1 PTFE and the re...