Rustoration of 1991 FOXBODY Mustang GT as a Cobra Clone

 After replacing the fuel pump relay with one that has a clip. The car stalled and the fuel pump doesn't prime. I decided it's time to dig into the ecu. The problem exists between the ECU and the relay and since it would run for 5-7 minutes, I figured it wasn't in the wire harness especially since I went over it carefully while rewrapping the harness.  There are tons of pictures and videos of the 3 capacitors that eventually fail in the ford eec iv ECU.  I pulled my A9P and removed the 6 torx screws. Guess what, 2 of the 3 capacitors show signs of failure. You can see the wad of black goop below the blue capacitors and the green corrosion on the leg. So I ordered the capacitors off ebay for $9. I could get a hundred of each for $12 but I don't have storage for small components. 

After rotating the motor to point the rotor to the distributor cap alignment keyway. I oiled the new distributor seal and gear and the new one dropped right in. I made sure I had available adjustment in both directions. The new radiator is shorter and wider so I had to add an old set of rubber bushings under the mounts. Now I am fabbing up and painting new fan mounts for the contour fans. Need to add some foam seal to where I trimmed the plastic of the fan shroud.

Car ran great for an hour and then the distributor went belly up and the side tank on the rad started leaking. Have new ones on the way. Radiator arrived. It's a cheap amazon deal so I didn't expect much and prayed it wasn't mangled in shipping.  I'd say it was knocked around a bit but the inlet took the damage and not the fins. i think i can bring it back to round with out too much trouble. Distributor should be here tomorrow.

So I went back to the 19lb stock single hole injectors. No issues on the install. The idle has smoothed out and it accelerates smooth. I am getting a check engine light which I believe is a code 22 the BAP sensor. I need to test the cooling capacity of the fans but so far they seem to handle the job.

So I tried the used pro-m maf sized for the 24lb injectors that came with the car. Motor was a 94 cobra motor so these are most likely original and stock based on the valve covers, comp cam 1.7 roller rockers, plus all the castings on the motor, trans, and rear end. The radiator hoses were even dated 5/12/93. With the used maf, the car runs drives, has power sounds like an e-cam again but gets wacky. Stalls won't restart gets nutty with throttle, doesn't like the heat. Someone recently tapped on the maf and it stalled. I tried that after it stalled during a cooling system test and it changed the behavior so I am sure the maf is not happy.  (By the way, after pressure testing the cooling system, a lower rad hose was the leak) the over-heating was because the fan sensor was all the way through the rad and the tip needs to be inside for the fans to run consistently. Moved the sensor to a new spot and it stays around the "o" of normal, I might lower it down a ...

So the amazon fans didn't work out. Just not enough air flow. A friend offered to sell me an MAF for 24lb injectors. He also, by luck had a set of 2000 contour fans that came with a crack in the plastic. I had a set waiting in the amazon cart to be ordered. After a good amount of trimming and bracket creation, I mounted and wired them. I got the oe fan connectors and they cool it down nicely. I have a fan kill switch to wire in but that's future. Now the tps is acting up, if you stomp the gas and then try to start it, it would start for a second. Did base idle reset and no better. After changing the MAF I did a base idle reset and swapped the tps but I think they are both bad. The old one has dead spots and the new one isn't working well down low. I'll pick up a duralast one for $45 and it should hopefully fix it. Now with the right maf you hear the cam  and it revs out, plus you barely have to give is gas in first gear. But if I get on it, the c...

Interesting thing. I think the last owners swapped the high beams for the regular headlights in the wiring. Then after they realized it, they removed the cluster bulb or burned it out. The car came with HIDs uninstalled and after market headlight pigtails. Finding a picture of an original pigtail to reference since the aftermarket wires are all black was not easy. (Actually after testing the functions it seems this is backwards) There is only 1 on ebay with the original colored wires. Fortunately I think I can repin the connection. I went to the wiring diagram to check the color codes and there is actually a mistake in diagram.  I tried it both ways and only red/black on the left works. If you think about it, the bulbs are wired the same left and right.