Rustoration of 1991 FOXBODY Mustang GT as a Cobra Clone

So I went to install the new remanufactured steering rack and it's already damaged. I left it on top of the box because I set it up to the old racks dimensions and greased the end links and organized the bushings and hardware. I remember at one point tripping over it and I guess I damaged it. The nipple that let's pressure move from one side it the rack to the other is torn from the rack bellows at the base. $10 and I will have a replacement coming from rockauto. Basically same price on amazon. The rockauto one shows steel zip ties.

 This is after the first coat of gloss enamel before i did the wheel well and outer aprons.

So after sleeping on the problem of the seam sealer tube that won't flow, I came up with 2 ideas. Of course I covered the tip in plastic and electrical taped it to hopefully keep it viable. First idea, I may not have heated it enough with the hot water. This time I stuck it on top of my boiler which is about 90 degrees ambient temperature an hour beforehand. The second idea is to use a bolo tie down and twist it around the caulk gun grips and then use a stick to twist it tighter instead of using all the strength in my hands. I am going to vacuum and clean the engine bay of dust and heat with a space heater while I continue seam sealing because I'd like to get the top coat done. Its the end of the day and it has been a long one. So heating up the seam sealer in the 90 degree territory made it just passable to finish everything. 1 tube really went far. All the seams, all the spotwelds, the main pinch weld underneath on both sides inside the front torque box and all the litt...

Last week I used the short stand fiberglass filler on the underside of the floor pans around welds and seams. I ended up ordering a good full face respirator after I found out how bad the fiberglass is to breath and how easy it gets in your eyes. I tried a few tools to sand back the filler. A oscillating multi tool with a triangle sanding pad, a rotary multi tool with a 2 inch roloc sanding disc, and an angle grinder with a flap disc. I did the majority with the angle grinder and the rest with the rotary tool. Very messy job. Then I had to vacuum the floor and used a brush tool to vacuum the floorpan underside and inside the car. I reprimered/sealed the underside of the pans. After a vacuum and acetone wipe of the seams I started using the seam sealer on the inside of the floorpan. I think I got a defective product because even after punching a massive hole in the caulk tube seal and opening the application tip to a quarter inch it took all my strength to just get a little bead. It...

So I decided to use short strand fiberglass filler on the weld sites and some of the seams. I started with the underside since that's what needs to get done to reassemble everything.  I have to say the 3m short strand glass filler is pretty good stuff. Easy to work with goes on smooth, reacts timely with the hardener. I wanted to work on my wax paper palette but could not find it. It would have made mixing easier. Paint sticks did the job but not as fast so may first batch was harder then I'd like when I finished. Also cutting down a large paddle helped. I did however create a small problem for myself. I expected to sand it and I did not take into account the saftey precautions needed to sand this material while laying on my back. Respirator and saftey glasses just won't cut the mustard as they say. I wanted a new respirator but I am forced into buying a full face mask to get the job done. The use of SEM Seam sealer, which u already have around would have had me a 1 and d...

I took a break from the fox to work on the daily 98 mustang v6. It's had the eibach pro kit on it for 3 years and rides pretty nice.  Also a new set of tires the last 3k miles, so I wanted to get the caster camber plates on before I put more miles and wear the inside of the tires. A cheap set of caster camber plates came up on amazon for $50 shipped so I grabbed them. Yes, China quality parts and they certainly needed modification during the install. After figuring out the problem, it was an easy fix. The captured nut on the lower plate was not welded flush. To remedy i cut the spot weld on 1 side of the nut and squeezed it flat in the vice. I had to tap the nut to clean up the threads. There was some light rust under the oe stock plate but some acid and a scrub with a wire brush took care of that. A hit of vht epoxy chassis paint to seal it and all done. While I was in the wheel well I spotted some rust. No holes yet, but I will need to remediate it before it get...

The rear suspension is back together and under load. Next I need to torque all to spec although some may be outside is my current torque wrench range. I have new rotors and pads and the correct lines to return the ebrake to service but all that needs to wait on fiberglass filler and paint. I should also change the shocks but they are functional for now. Tomorrow the weather is in the 508 and I will do caster camber plates, strut bumpstops and dust boots with my 7 year old. He is helping more with everything these days.