Rustoration of 1991 FOXBODY Mustang GT as a Cobra Clone

I have been having some trouble with the "station car", a 98 v6 mustang with 124k on the clock. Just hard starting. I know it's fuel related so I ordered a new pump and filler neck gasket. Since the weather is super cold installing that is on hold. I decided it was time for a tune-up so I order plugs wires and a new coil. I installed everything and immediately the car had a misfire. Rather then mess with finding spark, I grabbed the digital thermometer and tested the exhaust manifold and found #1 and #2 were cold. Switched the plugs on the coil and all was happy.  The wires were old but passable, the plugs were terrible, rusted on the outside and worn to a gap of .7 - .8 when they should be .54 stock. The coil when heat soaked in the summer would stumble at idle. Now it still starts hard but I know its either the pump of an "in tank line" that has a tiny split so the fuel pressure declines over a half an hour.    Now we need a 40 degree day to get under it and d

So I ran the car for a good 40 min. It ran cool for about 25 min. Then gray smoke started coming from the vents tells me I need to do the dreaded heatercore. I sort of knew it needed it. No coolant pooling on the floor board but steam out the vents has been noticed. Basically it had pressure until the over flow tank filled up, and then the coolant started to boil where the heater return line goes back into the motor.  Luckily most of the interior is still out, so it's 6 nuts to drop the column, 7 dash bolts, and 5 heater box bolts. (I know it's going to be a pain which is why I expect multiple sittings.) I may choose to pull the cluster bezel just to be thorough. I also need to resolder and wrap up some wires in there anyway and I'll deal with headlight switch.

A while back I added my own custom steering linkage. Moving it around the garage with out running the car has led to the shaft getting loose. I saw a video where old ford's had plastic inside the steering shaft expansion joint that could be shimmed after it wore away. My solution is to weld the straight lengths to the joints. I will have to pull the rack forward for removal but not uncommon for this car. My only concern is heat damage to the joint bearings. I'll probably wrap them in a damp cloth to slow the heat penetration. This will also slow me to better locktite the locking pins. Update: found the culprit, the nut and bolt that links the steering column to the steering shaft was loose and damaged mismatched.  Got a new nut and some blue locktite. I will still go back and weld some of the links in the steering shaft but that's future.

Here's a quick punch list: Alignment (tomorrow) Install rear seat and pass seat for 9yo  Mess with the steering shaft. birthday joy ride along. Install 2 window run channels and 2 window motors Push out small driver's door dent Wiper blades and inspection Install and wire door speakers Install weather seal and door cards Cavity wax interior rocker boxes Wrap up dash wires Install ground effects Adjust driver's fender gap. Peel and stick sound deadening Carpet and interior install.

Found the hood pins. Had to move them 1 inch forward because they were meeting a curve in the underside of the hood. I also gave it a minimal water bath. I also installed the ground effect brackets. I still need new Christmas tree push pins before those can go back on.

I added a little tab to my striker. Now the hood latches locks opens and doesn't rattle. Had to slide the assembly about a 1/16 so it would release. But for the life of me I can not find the hood pin kit I had stored for the last 6 years.

I cut my 1/8 striker plate drilled 4 holes and clamped it to the current stricker. I drilled 2 holes into the old plate and cut out the area behind it and bolted it together. Other then getting the washers and nuts in there, it worked out well. Now it latches but is a little loose. I'll add a tab that sits inside the latch more precisly and trim the excess. Also need to order replacement hood stops so it sits level over the head lights.

I started the creation of the adjustable striker for the hood.  First thing was to figure out how far off we are.  I latched the lock and used a caliper very informally and got .66 when fully latched.  Then I put a bit of clay in the lock and shut the hood. I used the witness mark in the clay and measured again that the latch was sitting .76 from the housing. I found a piece of scrap .12 thick so roughly 12ga or an 1/8 inch. I cut a metal coupon and marked and center punched it around the pop riviets. I need low profile hardware which should be here in a few days. Black zinc screws and nylon nuts. This way I can add washers behind the stricker if I need more depth.