Rustoration of 1991 FOXBODY Mustang GT as a Cobra Clone

So the beater (sn95 v6 mustang) started squealing and grinding while turning and I knew it was time for at least 1 ball joint. Ordered a set of balljoint and tie rod ends. As I found out it's a 3 tool rental job. Tie rod end remover, balljoint press and a pickle fork to remove the knuckle.  Other then the brake slide pins which are torx being stripped it was uneventful. The abs sensor was pretty stuck as well. Just took the knuckle off with the caliper still attached and rebleed the brakes but because of the sensor lead I put it on a stool while I worked. However my grease gun decided not to work so I'll have the alignment shop grease them for me.

So the temperature has dropped into the 40s and I am still driving the fox on dry days. I will until the first salt hits the road. Although the first 2 minutes of each ride, it didn't seem to run right since it's been colder. Hesitation, popping and banging until I got it up to 15-20 mph and the it would disappear and run normal. I sat in the car after a run and heard the exhaust ticking and it gave me the idea that it might have an exhaust leak and the headers are running hot. Makes sense that after they heat up and take up the space, the fuel mix would improve. Dreading to having to tighten the ball flange nuts again, I decided to first check the manifold bolts and sure enough they were all a quarter turn loose. Now it runs great, temps are down and power is up, no more hesitation or stuttering.  If it happens again I might have to add some PTFE to the threads. I know thread locker is called for but with the high heat the PTFE stays gummy. Maybe I'll try 1 PTFE and the re...

After driving around after dark and not being able to see my own lights, I decided to upgrade to led headlights. I am not going to say which ones I choose until I know they will be reliable but they were bought off Amazon for around 45$ The halogen lights are just weak.  I had them wired as 9007 bulbs and foxbodies are 9004 so I repined the sockets back to stock. The led on low beam makes a serious difference. The install was easy just remove the bulb flange and drop the lock ring between the flange and heat sink and wiggle the seal into the housing. I'll make a rig to focus them with a distance/drop formula.  Eventually I will do the foglight led upgrade also. 

Since installing a voltage gauge I have been able to really watch the charging system. The re-maned alternator I got off Amazon would charge less and less as the car came up to temp. Getting down in the 12s at idle and dropping below 12 as the fans spin up. Knowing this I decided to revisit the alternator that came with the car. After about a half an hour I can say the original is more stable hanging in the low 13s when hot. As I swapped them today I noticed the Amazon alternator had a smaller pulley. So now a pulley swap might even be in the cards for the old unit.  There are sizing questions to be answered first, but I'd guess it's fine since it's an oe pulley for an sn95.

There was some slack between the oe pin that inserts to the steering column and the D end of the aftermarket steering knuckle. I welded the pin to the knuckle and ground it back. I ordered a set of solid steering rack bushings from maximum motor sports as well because it's not a pricey item and should help take up some of the slop. The instructions were to score the sleeves and cut them flush with the stock K member.  The issue I was having is the slop in the inside of the sleeve. I measured it to be a 1.5 mm difference between the bolt and the sleeve. The solution was to get 2 lock washers. Using a punch and hammer open them up until they are a tight fit around the bolt and weld them to the end of the sleeve. Then some flap disc action to clean the extra weld on the outside and a rat tail file to clean the inner diameter and problem solved. Paint and some grease and back together we go.

SN95 V6 mustang rear brake line blew out as soon as I finished the reassembly after doing the head gaskets. After removing the oe driver's side line you can see the hole just behind the fitting. I made a fairly close clone out of nickle copper line and reused the line spring guard. I replaced the fittings with new and I also replaced the soft lines to each caliper. I bought a pump brake bleeder because I am doing stuff with brakes yearly these days.

Got my inspection sticker and picked the kids up from school. Cute reactions, if the weather is nice I'll do it again tomorrow. There are always things on the Todo list: Battery box cover needs some plastic welding. Passenger window needs an adjustment and some dry lube. The passenger side lock doesn't match my key. I'd like to redo the spare tire area. This might be the winter project.  The steering shaft needs a weld. There are 2 little holes in the hatch trough that need a fix. Need to check the rear light and glass seals. I think our hatch leak is under the spoiler. I'd like to clean and paint some of the trim. The quarter glass trim is pitted and I'd like to explore sanding and filling. The fog light relay mod needs to happen. Speaker install, undecided about a head unit, I was thinking a Bluetooth only unit I have seen in maritime applications.  Cleaning of the carpets if I don't replace them. Reinstall the rest of the interior. Small seat patc...