finished the engine bay wiring

I decided to pull the driver's fender because the fan controller was behind the washer tank and above the horn assembly. I disconnected the power the the fan controller and ran it into the grommet in the firewall with enough slack to put the disconnect button anywhere. I went to make the plug connections and found I was 3 inches short on a few of the main ones. I knew the harness was looped behind the strut tower but thought I had enough slack. I pulled the harness back throught the apron and went to send it through the smaller hole in the back of the strut tower that is a straight run and the day time running light pigtail was to big.
I took some pics and de-pinned it to run it through. Every thing worked and I hooked the harness up. 
i used 2 push pin zip ties into the under upper frame rail. 
I had to go back and split out the coil plug from the loom to get it routed how I wanted. Now the main harness is coming through a smaller hole it was tough to get the lip protector back into the hole. I had the jam it in with a screw driver while forcing the harness to the other side of the hole and ended up using 2 pieces.
i connected the battery and the door chime worked. All the dash board functions came back and it cranked strong but no fuel pump. 
The bright side is all interior functions are restored. The dome light, high beam indicator, ebrake indicator, seat belt indicator all work again so it will pass inspection.
Now it's time to trace down the fuel pump issue.

First guess is O2 harness. I think it's a manual harness for an auto a9p ecu.  Which means the ground pins are getting blasted with 12v and it can't ground the pump relay.
The way to check is disconnect the O2 harness and listen for pump prime at key on. Then reconnect harness and unplug the ecu and test pins 46 I believe for voltage during cranking. 
Last time I check my ecu had continuity through the 3 ground pins and still communicates. The distributor which I checked sends the proper pulse to the coil so the hall effect sensor is good. 
The next target is the inertia switch, because ford changed the way it functions and there is some suspect purple overspray on the switch and wiring. Applying power to the switch may prime the pump or activate the relay depending on which version. I personally think it will activate the relay based on the wire size coming through looks way to small to go directly to the pump.

This is the forum I am using to track things down. 
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/o2-harness.894157/
I will put the fender back on and start probing wires Monday.

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