Rustoration of 1991 FOXBODY Mustang GT as a Cobra Clone

So I threw the hood on. The glass hood isn't the best fit. Its short a half inch, so I extended the hinge holes to at least flush it the fenders and grill. I battled the latch before I blew it apart and the war continues. It's the strike plate on the hood, it's just janky. I am going to set it how I want the hood, and fab a new adjustable striker. Basically I am going to put some clay into the latch and close the hood to see how far I am from it locking. Then I can use a caliper to figure out how low the striker needs to come. Then I am going to cut the current striker into a U shaped plate and drill some holes. Bolts and washers to space the new striker down. I also need to adjust the driver's side fender but I already knew that would need some attention. I have a stock hood coming from a friend because I want to have one on hand and prep and paint it. 

I plugged in the egr plug and the cel went away. It was just a 3d printed plug with some silicone in the end. I was curious so I researched the circuit, it's a 5v ref and closed is .04 volts. My math says a 1ohm resistor gets me to .05v. I'll check the output just for my own curiousity. Filled up the tank with 93 octane and everything seems happy. I did stall it once and couldn't start it, but as soon as I gave it gas it fired back up, so I think with the bigger injectors it was just flooded. I'll have to check the mad part number cause it's probably not right. No over heating this time either. I did forget to fill up the over flow again. Now just need the new window motors and and alignment and it's ready for inspection.

I always knew the window motors were weak. It's the gum that builds up in the bushing at the bottom of the housing and the magnets loose their draw with heat. I took them apart a while back, but was not able to improve their performance. So I got a new pair shipped for $70 and also new window run channels for $46. It was hard as a rock and have broken below the glass. The glass clangs against the track when I go over bumps and threatens to break when not all the way rolled up. I also grabbed an egr plug wire to tell the ecu the valve is closed. I do not want to get into the emissions argument. Honestly id really like to put it back to stock. It's not in the budget just like the a/c.  Id need:  an egr crossover  egr down tube,  air thermactor tube and check valves,  egr vacuum controller,  smog pump,  canister purge solenoid  headers with the passenger side port and a bunch of vacuum lines.  The other idea is to start working on the Lincoln block. I have a few pieces already and

Being cautious I am only taking short drives, to see how the car will do. Hood off, with the fire extinguisher. I corrected the loose radiator clamp, but there is probably now a bubble in the cooling system, so I need to burp it. On top of that the radiator cap is not sealing and it got pretty hot 210-220. (I sort of knew about this but thought it was solved). With a no name, aftermarket radiator, it is hard to find the right cap. I have tried a few and none give me a very good seal. The current cap stops coolant from pouring out, but only with a silicone ring added underneath. Its definitely steaming and we will see if it draws the coolant back in. I might have to spend the coin and get a new rad. Feels like a waste for a cap but I have been looking for a solution. Id even considered TIG welding a replacement neck on the current rad. I would have liked to get gas today, but I am not about to go inside a small gas station, and the CC reader was not working. I stalled it more then a few