sn95 V6 mustang intake and head gasket replacement day 1

So the time has come to change the head gasket and lower intake gasket on the sn95 1998 mustang V6 with 124k. It's got a clear miss on cylinder 5,6 and smokes white after it's warm. Hasn't overheated yet because I have avoided using it. I'll thread as many fasteners back into place and the rest will get bagged and labeled.
Disconnected the battery. (Heard a horror story of somebody bumping the starter by bridging the solenoid with a tool) it's an auto but still paranoid.

Removed the intake hose.
Disconnected the throttle and cruise linkage.
Popped the vaccum lines off the top of the intake.
Disconnected the coil pack.
Pulled the plug leads and labeled them 1-6.
Removed the coil pack from the mount.
Started siphoning the coolant which may have some oil in it.
Removed the serpentine belt.
I chocked the rear wheels and raised the car up, I also put ramps under the front wheels since we are on a sloped driveway and supported with jackstands.
Disconnected the lower radiator hose into the bucket. 
Reconnected the lower hose and clamp.
Disconnected the heater hose from the passenger side header bracket and thermostat housing.
Removed the coil bracket.
Disconnected the egr and the upper intake
Removed the upper intake and covered the lower with tape.
Removed the egr sensor.
Removed the heater hose over the passenger header. It took a stud with it. 
Removed the upper radiator hose.
Disconnected the injector harness except a connection under the power steering pump.
Removed the a/c and tensioner bracket in one piece and bungee corded it off to the side.
Removed the pcv hose
Put in about 4 hours, mostly feels like it was spent getting the heater hose bracket off the header a quarter turn at a time. This is the end of day 1.
The to do list: 
Get a copy of the torque specs from the library. I have some from the internet for a 94 https://torquespecs.tripod.com/mustang_1994-98_3_8l-v6.htm but want a copy of the procedure with all the info.
Need to grab a power steering pulley puller and valve spring compressor from autozone rental. (power steering bracket bolts are hard to access with the pulley still in place.)
Move the pump and bracket to the side.
Disconnect the fuel rail supply and return
Unbolt the headers from the y pipe.
I'll probably throw a board under the y pipe and ratchet strap it loosely to the sub frame.
Lower the car.
Unbolt the headers from the heads.
Disconnect the heater hose that's on top of the intake from the heater core and the water pump bypass.
If possible pull the lower intake with the fuel rail and thermostat in place.
Remove valve covers.
Remove rocker arms.
Remove push rods.
I'll be making a wood rocker, push rod, valve and spring holder because I am going to change valve stem seals.
 And finally unbolt the heads

Day 3 will be cleaning the intake and heads and checking the heads over for flatness. I'll do cylinder head leak test before I disassemble. I may lap the valves if they show wear.

Popular posts from this blog

Flywheel, clutch, bell housing and some other details

Image
Installed the new flywheel.  Installed the new clutch.  Installed the clutch fork and throw out bearing  And then the bell housing  Installed a new transmission tailshaft seal.  I built a sled to drag it into place under the car and there's a bolt that fits the center of my jack through the center board. I may have to pull the shift cause there's exactly 19 inches under the pinch weld and thats the same to the shifter nub.
Read more

power steering rack line seals

Image
I finally decided to stop the leak that leaves a ton of fluid on my garage floor. I ordered the maximum motorsports rack seal kit. The instructions say you need to be clean before applying the sealant to the threads. I drained the rack and purged the rack after the lines were off so I could get rid of that little bit of fluid in the ports. i decided to completely remove and flush the lines to install the nylon seals. And have them stay clean through the install. the old one was chewed and the one that looks like new, wasn't installed right. Used the 2 screw driver method to gently stretch the rings out.  Then of course I take a break and get COVID. So 2 days later I am posting the pics.
Read more

water pump redo

Image
So with the change in temperature at the beginning of the year the water pump started sleeping when it was cold. This gradually got worse through the heat cycles. With corrosion evident on the bottom of the pump I decided to redo the water pump even though I am sure it could have just been resealed and been ok. I think I made 3 mistakes last time. I used the crap black gaskets that came with the pump. I used ultra grey rtv. I sealed the inner air pockets inside the pump. These filled with fluid and with the thermal expansion compromised the gasket. I went for a motorcraft pump this time as well as the light blue permatex rtv 22071. After I heatcycle the motor a few times I am going to go back and torque everything again. I also replaced the 2 left bolts that had corrosion on the from last time, with stainless ones. (5/16 - 18 4") I would have liked a 3 7/8" bolt but it's not available in stainless locally. I put a cut in an old bolt and chased the
Read more