sn95 V6 mustang intake and head gasket replacement day 1
So the time has come to change the head gasket and lower intake gasket on the sn95 1998 mustang V6 with 124k. It's got a clear miss on cylinder 5,6 and smokes white after it's warm. Hasn't overheated yet because I have avoided using it. I'll thread as many fasteners back into place and the rest will get bagged and labeled.
Disconnected the battery. (Heard a horror story of somebody bumping the starter by bridging the solenoid with a tool) it's an auto but still paranoid.
Removed the intake hose.
Disconnected the throttle and cruise linkage.
Popped the vaccum lines off the top of the intake.
Disconnected the coil pack.
Pulled the plug leads and labeled them 1-6.
Removed the coil pack from the mount.
Started siphoning the coolant which may have some oil in it.
Removed the serpentine belt.
I chocked the rear wheels and raised the car up, I also put ramps under the front wheels since we are on a sloped driveway and supported with jackstands.Disconnected the lower radiator hose into the bucket.
Reconnected the lower hose and clamp.
Disconnected the heater hose from the passenger side header bracket and thermostat housing.
Removed the coil bracket.
Disconnected the egr and the upper intake
Removed the upper intake and covered the lower with tape.
Removed the egr sensor.
Removed the heater hose over the passenger header. It took a stud with it.
Disconnected the injector harness except a connection under the power steering pump.
Removed the a/c and tensioner bracket in one piece and bungee corded it off to the side.
Put in about 4 hours, mostly feels like it was spent getting the heater hose bracket off the header a quarter turn at a time. This is the end of day 1.
The to do list:
Get a copy of the torque specs from the library. I have some from the internet for a 94 https://torquespecs.tripod.com/mustang_1994-98_3_8l-v6.htm but want a copy of the procedure with all the info.
Need to grab a power steering pulley puller and valve spring compressor from autozone rental. (power steering bracket bolts are hard to access with the pulley still in place.)
Move the pump and bracket to the side.
Disconnect the fuel rail supply and return
Unbolt the headers from the y pipe.
I'll probably throw a board under the y pipe and ratchet strap it loosely to the sub frame.
Lower the car.
Unbolt the headers from the heads.
Disconnect the heater hose that's on top of the intake from the heater core and the water pump bypass.
If possible pull the lower intake with the fuel rail and thermostat in place.
Remove valve covers.
Remove rocker arms.
Remove push rods.
I'll be making a wood rocker, push rod, valve and spring holder because I am going to change valve stem seals.
And finally unbolt the heads
Day 3 will be cleaning the intake and heads and checking the heads over for flatness. I'll do cylinder head leak test before I disassemble. I may lap the valves if they show wear.