heatercore time

The time has come to test my metal against the dreaded heatercore. I'll let you know how it went.

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Flywheel, clutch, bell housing and some other details

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Installed the new flywheel.  Installed the new clutch.  Installed the clutch fork and throw out bearing  And then the bell housing  Installed a new transmission tailshaft seal.  I built a sled to drag it into place under the car and there's a bolt that fits the center of my jack through the center board. I may have to pull the shift cause there's exactly 19 inches under the pinch weld and thats the same to the shifter nub.
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dreaded tail shaft bushing replacement

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So I have decided to tackle the dreaded t5 tail shaft bushing replacement. As of now I am only in the planning stages but the reason for this is because if I add a quart of fluid to the trans my shifts go smooth for about 3 hours and then 1-2 shifts become more and more jarring and notchy. It's so harsh it's not fun to drive. I have decided to pull the tail shaft housing with the transmission still in the car and hopefully with the h-pipe still in place. It's difficult to get the driveshaft out but not as bad as fighting with the catted h-pipe. I have also set my sights on adding v-band clamps to the exhaust at the crossover. So you can put in one side at a time. If I do that at the same time remains to be seen but it would allow me to weld in the wideband bungs. I will also be changing the slip yoke and the trans tail shaft seal. Heres a rough parts list, 28 spline slip yoke $58 lmr.com Tail shaft seal $16 lmr.com Tail shaft bushing $13 lmr.com Friction modifie...
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Wire tuck and porportioning valve

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Everything was going great until the relays decided not to pass through the passenger appron hole because the rear brake line was taking up a little too much space. I decided to separate the brake line at the union and pass it through a gap just under the frame rail. Besides scratching the heck out of the new paint it worked out well. Once it was all apart I added in the brake porportioning valve before re bending the lines by hand. I basically used cedar shims and pressed it against the body to gently change the shape. I'll add a few more clips in the wheel well.  Then I easily passed the relays and the wires after they were wrapped through. I will scuff and brush some rustoleum in the fender well just to protect from rust.
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