adding a heatercore restrictor

So reading up on changing the heatercore you come across the information about a restrictor used in later models recommend for the job. The reasons are clear enough that I agree it is a requirement. They are $10 or $12 bucks for a piece of plastic. There is also talk about using a stainless 3/8 1/4 inch socket. I have a ton of junk sockets but they are all plated and probably going to rust. So it's plastic or brass as an option. I poked around and was looking at my air tool attachments when I saw an old helium tank fitting.
a quick cut with a hacksaw and a little filing and sanding and it's perfect. 
Dropped it in and pushed it to the bend with the back of a rachet.
Next is the steering shaft may need some welds. There's some slip I want to take out. I want to remove it by only removing the shaft bolt and loosening the rack from the studs. Like the oe one. This way I know I don't need to collapse the 2 inner joints and the shaft adapter tip.

Popular posts from this blog

Flywheel, clutch, bell housing and some other details

Image
Installed the new flywheel.  Installed the new clutch.  Installed the clutch fork and throw out bearing  And then the bell housing  Installed a new transmission tailshaft seal.  I built a sled to drag it into place under the car and there's a bolt that fits the center of my jack through the center board. I may have to pull the shift cause there's exactly 19 inches under the pinch weld and thats the same to the shifter nub.
Read more

power steering rack line seals

Image
I finally decided to stop the leak that leaves a ton of fluid on my garage floor. I ordered the maximum motorsports rack seal kit. The instructions say you need to be clean before applying the sealant to the threads. I drained the rack and purged the rack after the lines were off so I could get rid of that little bit of fluid in the ports. i decided to completely remove and flush the lines to install the nylon seals. And have them stay clean through the install. the old one was chewed and the one that looks like new, wasn't installed right. Used the 2 screw driver method to gently stretch the rings out.  Then of course I take a break and get COVID. So 2 days later I am posting the pics.
Read more

water pump redo

Image
So with the change in temperature at the beginning of the year the water pump started sleeping when it was cold. This gradually got worse through the heat cycles. With corrosion evident on the bottom of the pump I decided to redo the water pump even though I am sure it could have just been resealed and been ok. I think I made 3 mistakes last time. I used the crap black gaskets that came with the pump. I used ultra grey rtv. I sealed the inner air pockets inside the pump. These filled with fluid and with the thermal expansion compromised the gasket. I went for a motorcraft pump this time as well as the light blue permatex rtv 22071. After I heatcycle the motor a few times I am going to go back and torque everything again. I also replaced the 2 left bolts that had corrosion on the from last time, with stainless ones. (5/16 - 18 4") I would have liked a 3 7/8" bolt but it's not available in stainless locally. I put a cut in an old bolt and chased the
Read more