Lots of brake work

Got into the front brakes and it was certainly easier then the back. Instead of hanging the caliper by a bungee I stuck it on a bucket to work on it.
New drilled and slotted rotors.
The front brakes depressed easy enough to use a channel lock but I used the tool anyway.
Front is all back together. The locating pin didn't want to seat and one of the pad clips kept popping off. I peened the stud with a hammer and screw driver so hopefully that will keep it on. Just a defective pad.

For the rear I used the new slid pin dust covers that looked correct online cause no one just sells the boots. I greased the new slide pins with brake grease. The dust boots were a little tight on the bracket. I still only needed my fingers to install them so they should be fine.
This is the caliper piston after the 3rd time. I kept getting the dust boot wrong. Your supposed the install the flat seal and then the dust boot is put on the end of the piston and installed before you seat the caliper and use the caliper compressor to spin the piston into the bore through the boot. The dust boot drops into the seat on the piston just before the piston bottoms out. 
And the back is all back together ready for a bleed. 
I still need to solve the portortioning valve leak. I may have the wrong thread in the actual valve because there are 2  3/8 fitting thread counts. I may invest in a flair tool and some 5/16 nickel copper line because it's something I want to learn.

After everything is mechanically functional I can worry about paint.

Popular posts from this blog

Flywheel, clutch, bell housing and some other details

power steering rack line seals

water pump redo