Filled the differential, and attached lots of accessories, wiper motor disassembly

So I started the day with the big job, filling the differential with gear oil and 4 oz of friction modifier. I thought 2 liters would be enough but it didn't drip out so another liter it is. I stuck a wire in and its close to the top. The fluid pump made it super clean although the cold hoses only wanted to loop. I use an electric heater to straighten them out but that didn't last. I used a spring clamp to hold the hose onto the diff so I don't make a huge mess. To get the 4 oz of friction modifier I cut a water bottle and poured 4 oz of water and marked a line and used that to measure and poured it into the half empty liter bottle. The pump was full of oil at the end and only the center can be separated and not the hoses. 
I also installed the painted crash absorbers.

I installed the heater box check valve

The MAP sensor and the vacuum tree. Actually the MAP sensor has a big crack in the front. I may replace it but for now a dab of liquid electrical tape should seal it.

I reattached the clutch cable and the speedometer cable to the frame rail and routed them back under the car.

I put the coil back on the strut tower. I wanted to hide it but that can wait.

I decided to start stripping the wiper motor since it is rough.

Definitely a bit of corrosion. Ill clean up the worse of it but i really just want to paint the housing after the rust is gone.



Popular posts from this blog

Flywheel, clutch, bell housing and some other details

Image
Installed the new flywheel.  Installed the new clutch.  Installed the clutch fork and throw out bearing  And then the bell housing  Installed a new transmission tailshaft seal.  I built a sled to drag it into place under the car and there's a bolt that fits the center of my jack through the center board. I may have to pull the shift cause there's exactly 19 inches under the pinch weld and thats the same to the shifter nub.
Read more

power steering rack line seals

Image
I finally decided to stop the leak that leaves a ton of fluid on my garage floor. I ordered the maximum motorsports rack seal kit. The instructions say you need to be clean before applying the sealant to the threads. I drained the rack and purged the rack after the lines were off so I could get rid of that little bit of fluid in the ports. i decided to completely remove and flush the lines to install the nylon seals. And have them stay clean through the install. the old one was chewed and the one that looks like new, wasn't installed right. Used the 2 screw driver method to gently stretch the rings out.  Then of course I take a break and get COVID. So 2 days later I am posting the pics.
Read more

water pump redo

Image
So with the change in temperature at the beginning of the year the water pump started sleeping when it was cold. This gradually got worse through the heat cycles. With corrosion evident on the bottom of the pump I decided to redo the water pump even though I am sure it could have just been resealed and been ok. I think I made 3 mistakes last time. I used the crap black gaskets that came with the pump. I used ultra grey rtv. I sealed the inner air pockets inside the pump. These filled with fluid and with the thermal expansion compromised the gasket. I went for a motorcraft pump this time as well as the light blue permatex rtv 22071. After I heatcycle the motor a few times I am going to go back and torque everything again. I also replaced the 2 left bolts that had corrosion on the from last time, with stainless ones. (5/16 - 18 4") I would have liked a 3 7/8" bolt but it's not available in stainless locally. I put a cut in an old bolt and chased the
Read more