Wiretuck time

So i have avoided the wiring like the plague. Not because I don't like or feel confident doing it, more so because I get distracted. For me that is opening a can of worms to my OCD it might be another rabbit hole. I find it almost relaxing to remove that old cruddy wrap and replace it neatly.

I unwrapped the entire drivers side harness from the firewall to the coil. I removed the headlight harness from the car. I hope to kitchen table it one night soon. My plan is to re-wrap the entire harness because I HATE SPLIT LOOM. I am using tesa tape to replace it. I picked up 10 rolls off amazon and that stuff is great. I also used edge guard to cover the edges of the holes in the strut tower and fender apron.
Being that I have a 91 fox, and it will not have cruise control restored, it has 2 holes I can pass wires through.
Now I need to decide if i want to pass the wires back in under the dash or under the pinch weld in the engine bay. I am pretty sure I will leave things stock and just move them under the pinch weld.
This is the main harness the runs on the firewall to the coil. The wires snaking around the lower left are the msd box to coil wires. I want those out of the loom incase I decide to delete it.

This group of wires and relays will tuck into the passenger apron.


Popular posts from this blog

Flywheel, clutch, bell housing and some other details

Image
Installed the new flywheel.  Installed the new clutch.  Installed the clutch fork and throw out bearing  And then the bell housing  Installed a new transmission tailshaft seal.  I built a sled to drag it into place under the car and there's a bolt that fits the center of my jack through the center board. I may have to pull the shift cause there's exactly 19 inches under the pinch weld and thats the same to the shifter nub.
Read more

power steering rack line seals

Image
I finally decided to stop the leak that leaves a ton of fluid on my garage floor. I ordered the maximum motorsports rack seal kit. The instructions say you need to be clean before applying the sealant to the threads. I drained the rack and purged the rack after the lines were off so I could get rid of that little bit of fluid in the ports. i decided to completely remove and flush the lines to install the nylon seals. And have them stay clean through the install. the old one was chewed and the one that looks like new, wasn't installed right. Used the 2 screw driver method to gently stretch the rings out.  Then of course I take a break and get COVID. So 2 days later I am posting the pics.
Read more

water pump redo

Image
So with the change in temperature at the beginning of the year the water pump started sleeping when it was cold. This gradually got worse through the heat cycles. With corrosion evident on the bottom of the pump I decided to redo the water pump even though I am sure it could have just been resealed and been ok. I think I made 3 mistakes last time. I used the crap black gaskets that came with the pump. I used ultra grey rtv. I sealed the inner air pockets inside the pump. These filled with fluid and with the thermal expansion compromised the gasket. I went for a motorcraft pump this time as well as the light blue permatex rtv 22071. After I heatcycle the motor a few times I am going to go back and torque everything again. I also replaced the 2 left bolts that had corrosion on the from last time, with stainless ones. (5/16 - 18 4") I would have liked a 3 7/8" bolt but it's not available in stainless locally. I put a cut in an old bolt and chased the
Read more