Rustoration of 1991 FOXBODY Mustang GT as a Cobra Clone

So I have completed 1 good coat of top coat por15 over the undetside of the primered floor pans. Yes I have heard and read tons about it. (That it won't stick, i lose the rust proofing) My opinion, I have witnessed myself, is Por15 topcoat over primer is super tough stuff and a pita to remove even with a grinder and any other way I have tried. Because of this great adhesion I have chose it as a topcoat for the under carriage. Since I am brushing it on there are still some spots in the pinch and under the edges of the sub frame I can not push the paint into and will have to add some rattle can. Next is to run the ebrake cables and build the bracket. Then I think I am going to drain and reseal the rearend.

So I ground down a flat spot on the solid shaft and used a pick to mark it through the set screw hole. I then drilled a 5/16" detent 1/4" deep on the tall side of the shaft.  I cut the taller set screws down and left 3 threads extra to make a rounded tip with a file. That will add pressure on the solid shaft in 2 directions. I have one more to cut and file. I just have to decide which thread lock I am going to use.

I took the original shaft and seated it into the column to mark the depth with a sharpie. I locked it down in the vise and you can clearly see the peen lines in the center of the yoke. I made 2 little cuts with a dremel cutting wheel on 1 side of the steering yoke. Gently tapped a chisel into the cut until the chip popped . Put the input pin in the vise and tapped the yoke off the pin. I put the lower joint on the steering shaft to make sure the 3/4" 36 splines line up. I pushed the pin into the 3/4 DD joint just to get a feeling on how much trimming i need to do on the other side. After about 10 min of grinding with a flap disc it dropped right into the 3/4" DD joint with not slop. I used a punch to mark detents into the top and side of the oe pin. I drilled both with a 1/4 inch bit but 1 was off so i may redo it later. I mounted the 18" shaft into the top steer joint and locked the detent. I marked the shaft with a sharpy and cut it to l

I started the day torquing the rear suspension. No big problems there. Before I was finished I got an email the steering rack bellows was delivered. 1 day was unexpected. I thought the stainless zipties would be the nice ones that auto cynch but they were the manual locking ones which are a pain. So I used the original crimp tie that came on the rack and a self locking stainless ziptie I had on hand. Now I just need the steering shaft parts and I am back to a roller. Next up is painting the top coat on the underside and e-brake cables.

So it's almost time to hook up our new Power steering rack, which means dealing with the fact our old steering shaft had a crack in one of the joints. The oem one worked but had a rubber rag joint that is just blehhh. Oem replacement is about $90. The upgrade is a direct bolt in double jointed shaft from borgsen $170 or flaming river $250. I found roughly the same components on amazon for $81 shipped. The only mod is to pull out the little metal tab from the original shaft and add some weld so it fills out the 3/4 dd socket. Then to cut the dd shaft to needed length. I will also dimple the shaft where the set screws sit and use locktight.