ITS A BOY!
SUCCESS. I used a ratchet strap hooked to the front k-member to roll the axle enough to get the last upper control arm bolt on the drivers side back in an hand tight. Thanks stangnet for that tip.
Then I unbolted the passenger lower control arm bolts forward and rear. I had to take the exhaust off the hangers to get to the head of the lower control arm bolt. Then i just stepped on the breaker bar and the nuts broke free. Pried it out with a dead blow and a little pry bar. Now i know it, took me all of 10 minutes.
I tried loosening the passenger side upper control arm nut but it wouldn't budge, so i figured Id plug along and see if i couldn't get enough droop to pass the exhaust through over the axel. I really do not want to bleed brakes right now. I wedged a board into the wheel well sitting on top of the brake rotor while stepping on the lugs which i left hand tight on the studs. I wedged scraps of wood between the board and rotor until i had no more downward play in the axle.
Then i used a creeper to rest the forward part of the tube as i slide it forward. I got it turned clockwise 45 degrees and then i had to move the jack stand so i nosed the jack as close as i could to the jack stand to just catch the frame rail and added a 2x4 under the jack to get enough height to collapse the jack stand. I twisted and turned and had to unscrew the corner of the rear ground effects but it finally popped out like a baby! Man that was a pita.
I replaced the jack stand and slid it on out on the creeper.
Then I unbolted the passenger lower control arm bolts forward and rear. I had to take the exhaust off the hangers to get to the head of the lower control arm bolt. Then i just stepped on the breaker bar and the nuts broke free. Pried it out with a dead blow and a little pry bar. Now i know it, took me all of 10 minutes.
I tried loosening the passenger side upper control arm nut but it wouldn't budge, so i figured Id plug along and see if i couldn't get enough droop to pass the exhaust through over the axel. I really do not want to bleed brakes right now. I wedged a board into the wheel well sitting on top of the brake rotor while stepping on the lugs which i left hand tight on the studs. I wedged scraps of wood between the board and rotor until i had no more downward play in the axle.
Then i used a creeper to rest the forward part of the tube as i slide it forward. I got it turned clockwise 45 degrees and then i had to move the jack stand so i nosed the jack as close as i could to the jack stand to just catch the frame rail and added a 2x4 under the jack to get enough height to collapse the jack stand. I twisted and turned and had to unscrew the corner of the rear ground effects but it finally popped out like a baby! Man that was a pita.
Measured the new piece and made a mark. I use a zip tie and square to draw a fairly accurate line.
I wrapper a piece of 3 inch masking tape around my line to see if it was true.
Used a cutting wheel on a grinder to lightly mark the line, then i followed the groove around with a hack saw until it fell off.
The new pip slips right over the old, I thought it would be a butt weld it is going to be a lap weld.
No welding today but i did clean a few small items for welding later
This front absorber is loose so i will put 2 good tacks just to stop it from rattling. It has a half inch of play so really not worth replacing.
I clean the inside of the quad shock bracket to weld the bolts to them and the they will be put in a vinegar bath and painted. Yes i took the coating off the heads of the bolts so I won't gas myself while welding.
