Por15 on weld area

08/12/2017

The weld area all coated with por15, next is to drop the pan in with all the plug weld holes and mark all the welds for grinding. I will use self tapping screws to pull the pan into its final position and then scratch the paint through the holes with a pick.




Popular posts from this blog

Flywheel, clutch, bell housing and some other details

Image
Installed the new flywheel.  Installed the new clutch.  Installed the clutch fork and throw out bearing  And then the bell housing  Installed a new transmission tailshaft seal.  I built a sled to drag it into place under the car and there's a bolt that fits the center of my jack through the center board. I may have to pull the shift cause there's exactly 19 inches under the pinch weld and thats the same to the shifter nub.
Read more

dreaded tail shaft bushing replacement

Image
So I have decided to tackle the dreaded t5 tail shaft bushing replacement. As of now I am only in the planning stages but the reason for this is because if I add a quart of fluid to the trans my shifts go smooth for about 3 hours and then 1-2 shifts become more and more jarring and notchy. It's so harsh it's not fun to drive. I have decided to pull the tail shaft housing with the transmission still in the car and hopefully with the h-pipe still in place. It's difficult to get the driveshaft out but not as bad as fighting with the catted h-pipe. I have also set my sights on adding v-band clamps to the exhaust at the crossover. So you can put in one side at a time. If I do that at the same time remains to be seen but it would allow me to weld in the wideband bungs. I will also be changing the slip yoke and the trans tail shaft seal. Heres a rough parts list, 28 spline slip yoke $58 lmr.com Tail shaft seal $16 lmr.com Tail shaft bushing $13 lmr.com Friction modifie...
Read more

Wire tuck and porportioning valve

Image
Everything was going great until the relays decided not to pass through the passenger appron hole because the rear brake line was taking up a little too much space. I decided to separate the brake line at the union and pass it through a gap just under the frame rail. Besides scratching the heck out of the new paint it worked out well. Once it was all apart I added in the brake porportioning valve before re bending the lines by hand. I basically used cedar shims and pressed it against the body to gently change the shape. I'll add a few more clips in the wheel well.  Then I easily passed the relays and the wires after they were wrapped through. I will scuff and brush some rustoleum in the fender well just to protect from rust.
Read more