Door removal and frame rail squeeze
06/07/2017
So today was a big day. Pulled the door off. Used ratchet straps from the ceiling joists to hold the door while I unbolted the 6 bolts. Used a cedar shim to let the door hang for a minute. Pretty heavy but manageable.


Now that the door is off I have access to the rocker panels with the jack damage. I was able to squeeze it back to square.
I had to make a wood jig that sits next to the pinch weld and flat against the rocker to squeeze against.
Then I test fitted the new pan and drew a chalk mark at the top. Since the pan is not sitting flat, I measured where it needs to sit and added 4 inches and marked the eventual cut line for the old floor which gives me a good amount of extra metal to trim later when it sits down farther.
I will also need to squeeze the rocker box where the old floor pan meets the rocker, after I cut away the old floor. Then I marked the sub-frames and fuel line runs on the old pans.




So today was a big day. Pulled the door off. Used ratchet straps from the ceiling joists to hold the door while I unbolted the 6 bolts. Used a cedar shim to let the door hang for a minute. Pretty heavy but manageable.


Now that the door is off I have access to the rocker panels with the jack damage. I was able to squeeze it back to square.
I had to make a wood jig that sits next to the pinch weld and flat against the rocker to squeeze against.
Then I test fitted the new pan and drew a chalk mark at the top. Since the pan is not sitting flat, I measured where it needs to sit and added 4 inches and marked the eventual cut line for the old floor which gives me a good amount of extra metal to trim later when it sits down farther.
I will also need to squeeze the rocker box where the old floor pan meets the rocker, after I cut away the old floor. Then I marked the sub-frames and fuel line runs on the old pans.



